Unless you are a mechanic or an old hippie, you probably don't have a black light to use for a dye test. Might be worth a trip to a trusted shop for this. Foamy, cocoa color? That's indication of mixing of crankcase oil with coolant and points to cracked block, assuming its cracked towards the inside only. Cracked block that opened a coolant passage to the outside or to the inside. Option #4 is worst of all, and sort of ties in with #1. Cooling system and leak down compression test. I've never had a "power flush" of any system since that happened nearly 18 years ago. Mercury dealer denied all responsibility. With mine, gray-white "smoke" eventually came out the vents and no Bars Leaks type of product could seal the heater core. Look and feel inside the car for wet or damp, under the dash. Not sure about modern, long life coolant, but I know the older type when I had a leaky heater core (post radiator flush and refill, btw) smells much like maple syrup. Any whitish smoke? Have someone follow you and watch as the volume might not look like a new Pope got elected or anything like that. Head gasket leaking coolant into combustion chamber and out the exhaust. Be patient, since you may have only a small volume leak at the present time that looks nothing like Old Faithful erupting. radiator, hoses, thermostat housing, etc.). About as much fun and accurate as trying to chase a leaky roof, but if you can follow the dripline up, you'll spot the leak source somewhere (i.e. First test is to park in hot on a dry surface and let it sit. 6.2L/6.Assuming the coolant level reads low, its going somewhere.6.2L Diesel - Tech Support - Troubleshooting - Performance.6.5L Turbo Diesel - Tech Support - Troubleshooting - Performance.Quick Navigation 6.5L Turbo Diesel - Tech Support - Troubleshooting - Performance Top The truck does miss here and there usually only after it’s been warmed up for a few minutes, or on take off up the road. I wonder once I go buy a CDR it will make my smoke from the dipstick go away. That’s where the line with the bolt in it goes too.Īnd I figured it was supposed to be something else other than a plastic pvc pipe coming out of there. The last photo shows that plug with the blue connector there. Yeah the thin plastic line is too a boost gauge. A slight negative pressure in the crankcase evacuates any blowby and helps prevent oil leaks. The CDR regulates how much of that vacuum is applied to the valve cover. Air rushing through there creates a vacuum. There should be a Crankcase Depression Regulator (CDR) about the size of a tuna fish can with a fitting stuck into one of the valve covers A hose from there goes to the rubber connector between the air filter box and the turbo inlet. ![]() The last photo shows a thin plastic line that probably went to a boost gauge at one time. I’m going to check the air filters and things today, I am also going to do the complete oil change. I’m new too diesels as you can tell, so some of my questions about what things are called may sound dumb. Our member John Kennedy can help with the power mods.Yes that is the one! And I’m going to guess that this truck does have all factory everything. Seeing a whispy trail of vapor out the dipstick or the oil fill cap if removed (at engine idle) is not that uncommon on a high mile engine.Ī power chip or ECM flash (96 and later needs the ECM FLASHED) The valve regulates this low pressure to a specific level to allow blowby from combustion to be removed.ĭoes the engine still have the factory air cleaner and plumbing connected ? This valve allows the intake airflow into the turbo to create a small low pressure in the crankcase. The "GIZMO" by the turbo is the CDR VALVE I haven’t pulled the valve to check yet will be doing that tomorrow.Īlso, if any of y’all have any tips on how to get alittle more power out of this rig would be appreciated. He said either that valve is probably clogged or something. He pulled hose out of the part by turbo and put covered the hole. But, it goes into the motor little white piece. Not really sure what valve he said it was called. However, the light for “low coolant” light will still come and go.Īs for the smoke in the dipstick, had a friend of mine check it out. I replaced the T stay and the temp stays where it needs to be. (Yeah, what she said.) I have figured out the temp issue. How the air got there is the big concern. ![]() Did you mean to say "pop off"? That sort of behavior sounds a lot like there's a huge air bubble in the cooling system that's interfering with normal circulation of coolant.
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